
David Hockney - A Bigger Splash (1967)
"The visible aggregate of the whole of Los Angeles churns so confusingly that it induces little more than illusionary stereotypes or self-serving charicatures - if in reality it is ever seen at all. What is this place? Even knowing where to focus, to find a starting point, is not easy, for perhaps more than any other place, Los Angeles is everywhere. It is global in the fullest sense of the word. Nowhere is this more evident than in its cultural projection and ideological reach, its almost ubiquitous screening of itself as a rectangular dream machine for the world. Los Angeles broadcasts its self-imagery so widely that probably more people have seen this place than any other on the planet." - Edward W. Soja, Postmodern Geographies: The Reassertion Of Space in Critical Social Theory (1989) P222-3.

As the jacket cover to Mike Davis's definitive biography of Los Angeles 'City Of Quartz' (1990) states no metropolis has ever been more loved or more hated than the City Of Angels. To its official boosters, "Los Angeles brings it all together". To its detractors, LA is a sunlit mortuary where "you can rot without feeling it". Indeed, LA's personality has long been so fractured that an elusive 'reality' has been contested for much of the 20th Century. The absence of a physical centre or of a defining elite who can shape its character has enabled its persona to remain up for a grabs in a way that would be unthinkable in London, New York or Paris. Yet like all Cities, allegations of both utopia and dystopia remain forever located in each individuals' response. Personally, I love LA. It has a kinetic energy I find intoxicating, a winning mentality and pronunced pleasure principle. Yet paradoxically I can also recall my first experience of LA and it was extremely negative. As the taxi crawled in from LAX airport along the jaded, crumbling streets of West Hollywood, the sprawl around me oozed disconnection and menace. I didn't think I could take it. LA's Raban-esque duplicity then has co-existed within me, even if now I reside very much on the side of the so-called 'boosters'. And with this in mind let us consider the various vantage points from which the City can be viewed by beginning with the City's numerous 'debunkers'.
Collateral - Michael Mann (2004) THE DEBUNKERS
"Tell you the truth, whenever I'm here I can't wait to leave. It's too sprawled out, disconnected. ....This has got to be the fifth biggest economy in the world and nobody knows each other. I read about this guy who gets on the MTA here, dies. Six hours he's riding the subway before anybody notices his corpse doing laps around L.A, people on and off sitting next to him. Nobody notices." - Vincent (Tom Cruise) Collateral (2004)
Words like 'shallow', 'soulless' and 'disconnected' always come up when LA is being negatively scrutinized. Partly this is because of LA's perceived absence of public space; it's contended that the non-existence of a Left Bank-style location means people have nowhere to talk and meet, and thus ideas don't get debated or evolved. Indeed, the fragmented physical nature of LA life is explicitly expressed in the over-reliance on the motorcar. This is not a 'public' City, it is a series of private places in which individuals dwell. Such fragmentation has fired many great thinkers and writers into recoil - The Frankfurt School when exiled here took it to task as illustrative of the dangers of the consumerist society, resulting most significantly in Adorno's reactionary 'culture industry' diagnosis. Aldous Huxley and Horace McCoy, Nathaniel West and Jame M. Cain, Joan Didion, Thomas Pynchon and Brett Easton Ellis - all have described a dark nausea within the City, a 'moral apocalypse' as Mike Davis extrapolates, and depicted it in their respective key works. It is the same dark heart that pumps a 'nihilistic exhilaration' through film noir and haunts modern existentialist cinematic classics from Citizen Caine (1944) to Chinatown (1974), Bladerunner (1982) to Heat (1995). In short, the debunkers fear LA is a physical expression of where the capitalist model for modern life always leads, a never-ending circuit of dissatisfaction and superficiality. As John Rechy wrote in 'City Of Night' (1963), in LA even 'the sun gives up and sinks into the black, black sea.'
Annie Leibowitz - 'Killers Kill Dead Men Die' (2007)THE BOOSTERS
But let's consider that 'nihilistic exhilaration' now as we turn towards LA's boosters because there is undoubtedly drama in this City. Indeed, the procession of intellectual big-hitters who have, often reluctantly, inhabited Los Angeles points to a consistent, potent cultural presence in this supposedly vacuous terrain. Because actually, LA's intellectual legacy is breathtaking in its scope. I have already noted the presence of Adorno, Horkheimer and Marcuse, but over the course of the 20th Century one can add to that list thinkers that include Einstein, Oppenheimer and their respective scientific luminaries at the Cal Tech Institute. Writers on the run such as Thomas Mann, Fitzgerald, Hemingway, Faulkner, Christopher Isherwood and Raymond Chandler, as well those who have dared call LA home - Charles Bukowski, John Fante, James Ellroy and Brett Easton Ellis. Innovative muscians across all genres, from John Cage to Ornette Coleman, Buffalo Springfield to Dre Dre. LA has never been short of radical popular culture.
Alex Prager - Undo (2007)
And all this is before we consider Hollywood. Indeed Hollywood has long been more than a place or a business; it's a symbol of the very best (and the very worst) modern life aspires to be. Yet in 2009, despite many major film productions relocating to territories such as Vancouver, its cultural impact remains extraordinary. Hollywood has challenged reality and / or helped us escape it for almost ninety years; as such few modern Cities can claim such influence over the here and now, as James Frey illuminates in his caustic overview of LA's multiple personalities, 'Bright Shiny Morning'.
"To call LA , then or now, a cultural wasteland is, in my opinion, an incredibly ignorant remark. Los Angeles is the cultural capital of the world. No other City even comes close to it. And when I say culture, I am talking about contemporary culture, not what mattered fifty or hundred and fifty years ago. Contemporary culture is popular music, television, film, art, books. The other disciplines, dance, classical music, poetry, theatre, they don't hold any real weight anymore, their audiences are small, and they're more like cultural oddities than the cultural institutions....I didn't want to be part of New York, part of some pre-existing art world that didn't know it was being outdated. I wanted to go to the New World, and I felt this was it." James Frey 'Bright Shiny Morning', P480.
Philip Lorca-diCorcia - Eddie Anderson, 21, Houston Texas, $20 (1991)THE CITY AS SIMULACRUM
L.A. - parallel worlds then, co-existing in the same place at the same time. But then this is what makes L.A. such a fascinating place. There really is no precedent to the type of existence found in L.A. Indeed, it's uniqueness is what makes it so equally loved and reviled. Jean Baudrillard defined L.A.'s paradoxical nature as an example of the 'simulacrum' stating, "Los Angeles and the America surrounding it are no longer real, but of the order of the hyper-real and of simulation. It is no longer a question of a false representation of reality (ideology), but of concealing the fact that the real is no longer real, and thus of saving the reality principle. Los Angeles is encircled by these "imaginary stations" which feed reality, reality-energy, to a town whose mystery is precisely that it is nothing more than a network of endless, unreal circulation: a town of fabulous proportions, but without space or dimensions. As much as electrical and nuclear power stations, as much as film studios, this town, which is nothing more than an immense script and a perpetual motion picture, needs this old imaginary made up of childhood signals and faked phantasms for its sympathetic nervous system." 
Chris Burden '747' - (1974)
Perhaps then it is only by accepting this transient, non-definition of L.A that one can embrace its shape shifting, often weird reality. Indeed, it is the constant seeking out of a future that gives the City its energy making it, as Thomas Pynchon observed 'an endless text always promising meaning but ultimately only offering hints and signs of a possible and final reality.' Indeed, Eric Maria Remarque surmised the City in similarly fluid terms - 'Real and false were fused so perfectly that they became a new substance....it meant nothing that Hollywood was filled with great musicians, poets and philosophers. It was also filled with spiritualists, religious nuts and swindlers.' There can be no certainity about LA then; but then, does there really need to be?
Watch one of the great L.A documentaries 'Reyner Banham Loves Los Angeles' Here.